The Reflective Wrap: Thinking, Making and PrintingIn these uncertain times, celebrating the achievements of our community is a welcome respite! We congratulate those from the School of Fashion & Textiles who presented at the Graduate Research Symposium and the Critical Fashion Studies conference in February, and Dr Jenny Underwood and Dr Daphne Mohajer va Pesaran (in collaboration with Jake Nakashima-Edwards, recent Bachelor of Fashion(Design)(Honours) graduate) who presented work at the Future Prototyping Exhibition in March. With so many staff and students presenting at VAMFF, we will be issuing a special wrap-up in the next few weeks. |
Graduate Research Symposium (GRS)
12th-14th, 24th-25th February & 2 March, Brunswick.
The Graduate Research Symposium took place over three weeks and commenced with a keynote presentation by Professor Steve Michielson, aka Dr Blood, who highlighted the potential for material surface properties to contribute to the comfort and performance of garments, including the timely example of antiviral protection, and the forensic application of blood stains in clothing.
From the masters cohort, Thomas McEvoy explained how a miniature garment, enlivened through QR codes, can rescue Australian fashion history, Sang Thai examined masculinity and diasporic Asian queer experience through the use and making of a t-shirt, and Rohani Osman discussed the social echo and collaborative practices of nail art and adornment.
Rohani Osman described her research: “I decided to undertake my research because I wanted to learn more about the practice of fingernail adornment, an industry that I currently also work in, but was unable to find any writing about it other than standard industry information or articles in fashion magazines. Centring the research around my own practice has given me valuable insight into the way i work, as an artist, and how I navigate my relationships with my clients.
Studying masters part time has given me great flexibility to fit in alongside full time work. I have also been very fortunate to have a great supervisory team that spans across the School of Fashion & Textiles and the School of Art who have been very generous with their time and provide me with rich feedback during meetings.”
Confirming their doctoral candidature, Rachel Lamarche presented her framework for investigating consumer behaviour related to veganism and fashion, Clarice Garcia speculated on trend forecasting methods of the future, and Gareth Kershaw drew from his art background to create a sculptural practice of dress. Reporting on her research to date, Yassie Samie discussed the complexities of the textile and clothing waste ecosystem, using metropolitan Melbourne as a test case, while Mac Fergusson reviewed the history of textile manufacture in Australia, from 1788 -2020.
Taking a sensory approach, Caroline McMillan discussed her design practice of multisensorial wearables in an Internet of Worn Things. Giving attention to material comfort and performance, Lize Niemczyk evaluated the performance and design of bras worn under body armour, Chalisa Apiwathnasorn presented on developing mosquito repellent textile from Zanthoxylum Limonella essential oil coating, Olga Gavrilenko explored nanofibrous coating on cotton fabric, and Abdur Bhuiyan investigated chemical protection and improved thermophysiological wear through textiles.
Critical Fashion Studies conference
Thursday 27th- Saturday 29th February, University of Melbourne
Congratulations to the School of Fashion staff and postgraduate students who presented research at the Critical Fashion Studies conference held at University of Melbourne. A special mention goes to Harriette Richards, former compiler of the Houndstooth Wrap and organiser of the conference!
Reflecting the deep engagement of the school with sustainability efforts, Kate Sala spoke on transforming sustainable fashion education, Georgia McCorkill, considered poetic processes for designing from waste, Emma Pollock looked at consumer behaviour through clothing swaps and Rachel Lamarche investigated values-based labelling and vegan fashion.
School of Fashion lecturer, Georgia McCorkill said: “The Critical Fashion Studies conference was really interesting for me in the sheer number of predominantly Australian researchers exploring sustainable and ethical questions from a wide range of perspectives. This is a marked difference from a few years ago where discussions were very much focused solely at the material sourcing and supply chain areas. I think the input from a large number of cultural studies based researchers made for interesting contributions to the emerging field of wardrobe studies and also a much needed critical perspective on emerging frameworks such as the circular economy.”
Another cluster of research interests focused around the relationship between fashion and the senses. Caroline McMillan presented on the development of an olfactory fashion wearable, Ritika Skand Vohra shared her sensorial creative practice that privileges touch, and Julie Macindoe explored how blind women navigate gendered, ocularcentric dress practices.
Showcasing the diversity of research projects, other presentations included Daphne Mohajer Va Pesaran reporting on the practices of paper clothing in Japan, as part of the Endangered Material Knowledge Programme, and Tarryn Handcock on designing urban site-responsive fashion, using examples of live performance events with the Bachelor of Fashion (Design)(Honours) third year students: Urban Flâneur: Fashion Reimagines the City (2018) and Situation Brunswick (2019).
Future Prototyping Exhibition
24th February- 27th of March, Melbourne School of Design
Creating design provocations with the future in mind, Dr Jenny Underwood (in collaboration with Leanne Zilka) and Dr Daphne Mohajer va Pesaran (in collaboration with recent Bachelor of Fashion (Design) (Honours) graduate Jake Nakashima-Edwards) were part of the Future Prototyping Exhibition.
The work by Daphne Mohajer va Pesaran and Jake Nakashima-Edwards proposes a speculative system for garment design based on a thought experiment by Greek philosopher Heraclitus around 400-500 b.c, which when applied to the context of fashion design, generates questions like: What stays the same in a coat that has been repaired so many times that it no longer retains any of its original fabric or thread? Can we design a garment for a hundred years?
Lecturer Daphne Mohajer va Pesaran said: “This prototype series could open lines of enquiry into authenticity, identity, value and time, enabling fashion consumers to disrupt the regeneration of garments—not only aesthetically, but materially”.
Mutoh Printer
A brand new Mutoh ValueJet 1938TX direct-to-textile pigment printer has replaced the old Roland, that found its new home in Sydney at Blueprint Digital last Friday.
Danielle Andree said: “Thanks to a joint effort between the Schools of F&T and VDSC, we were able to replace an important piece of equipment. The intention being that a more reliable and capable printer would allow us to offer large format digital textile pigment printing more readily to students as part of their studies. This particular print process is suitable for a range of white or light coloured woven cellulose and protein fibre fabrics – we are also looking forward to testing whether we can successfully print onto such fabrics with knitted constructions.
After 3 days of installation, the printer ran its first batch of prints and the results have simply blown the print staff away. The deep blacks, vivid colours and print clarity that we’ve just not been able to produce previously has got us all very excited!
Like any piece of equipment, the Mutoh will require love and care to stay in tip top condition. I’m in the process of developing some training for print staff in the maintenance and use of the printer.”
If you would like any more information or to see the printer, please contact Dani: danielle.andree@rmit.edu.au
Waa Weelum Community
It’s the start of Waring (wombat) Season. The days begin to be cool and wombats appear to bask in the sun. The hearts of the soft tree ferns are eaten.
As the seasons change, the plants and wildlife of Waa Weelum prepare for the cooler months ahead. The rainbow lorikeets are noisy in the trees, while the crows strut around below. The leaves begin to fall.
This week, students from Fashion Textile Place and Story participated in a weaving activity using grasses and foliage found around the campus; a wonderful way to learn about the plants of Waa Weelum and be outside in the sunshine, particularly in these stressful times.
The next issue of the Houndstooth will be a special wrap-up of VAMFF! In the meantime, please share any projects or achievements so that we can remain connected during this time of social distancing.