Adventures in Fashion

The hot months are here – Buath gurru, Tussock Grass season. This is the last issue of the Houndstooth for 2019, a special collaborative issue put together by Harriette Richards, Zara Piles, Angela Armstrong and Julie Macindoe.

This month senior Lecturer in Fashion and Textiles, Dr Rebecca van Amber, shares her recent trip to the US; the RMIT Association of Fashion and Textile Students (RAFTS) held a natural dyeing workshop; the School of Education visited Brunswick for a Possum skin cloak workshop; we congratulate students who recently presented at the PRS; and we check in on the Garden, whose team members were recently awarded a bronze medal in the Green Impact Award hosted by RMIT Sustainability.


American University Visit

In October, Dr Rebecca van Amber flew to the US to visit four Universities to learn about teaching sustainable innovation and textile development and she shared some of her insights with us:

Rebecca with Deb Johnson at the Pratt Center for Sustainable Design Strategies

“Over the course of six days, I visited Drexel University’s Center for Functional Fabrics, where I gave a presentation about my research and some of the work we’ve been doing on our new courses here at RMIT.  I also learned how widely read Dr. Jenny Underwood’s thesis is! I then had a chance visit to the Fashion and Textile Futures Center at Jefferson University, and was in awe of their fantastic knitting and weaving facilities.  I presented again at Cornell University, liasing with Dr. Juan Hinestroza at the Textiles Nanotechnology Laboratory at Cornell University. And finally I had another last minute visit to meet with Deb Johnson, the founder and executive director of the Brooklyn Fashion + Design Accelerator at the Pratt Institute in NYC!  It was a jam-packed trip but a fantastic opportunity to see what is happening stateside.”


RAFTS Club Event

Friday 18 October

The RMIT Association of Fashion and Textiles Students (RAFTS) is a student association aiming to build a community for undergraduates, postgraduates, research and vocational students enrolled (or with an interest) in Fashion and Textiles. On 18th October, RAFTS held a Natural Dyeing Workshop with REMUSE, a Melbourne-based brand that uses artisan techniques, low-impact dye technology, and natural fibres to create art pieces. The idea behind this brand is to make small, ethically produced, trans-seasonal collections. Organisers Candice (Hsin-En Cheng) and Vera (Yuqing Tang) told us a bit about the event: 

RAFTS Event with REMUSE

“The event started with a talk from Tamara, where she introduced the brand and the natural dyeing process. Tamara then led the students through a workshop, where they dyed a scarf with natural dyes. 

Because of the different ways the students twisted the scarves, it created a variety of beautiful patterns and textures. At the end of the workshop, the students got take home their stunning hand-dyed piece to keep and wear.”


Practice Research Symposium (PRS)

Saturday 26 October 

From the 23-27 October, the RMIT Practice Research symposium (PRS) was held at the Design Hub. Four PhD Candidates from the School of Fashion and Textiles presented progress reports on Saturday 26. Cecilia Heffer and Marni Stuart considered concepts of place in relation to their practice-based research, with Cecilia reimagining lace in response to transience and Marni exploring botanical observation in textile design, while Clarice Garcia speculated on the role of vintage clothing in the future and Julie Macindoe explored how people with visual impairments experience fashion. Congratulations to you all on your presentations!


Possum Skin Cloak Workshop

Wednesday 20 November 

The School of Education visited Brunswick in November to hold a Possum skin cloak workshop, one of three workshops held across the three RMIT campuses, that invited people to learn about and contribute to reconciliation efforts through the process of making with important indigenous materials. Aleryk Fricker shared some insights with us:

“This is a project that has come from the School of Education’s deep commitment to reconciliation as well as efforts to embed Indigenous perspectives in the everyday experience of staff and students in the school. Over the next few years, the cloak will also act as a living cultural artifact and honour roll for the School of Education, holding our stories and successes, and firmly embed reconciliation as part of out everyday business.

With the help and expertise of Mitch, a proud Boon Wurrung man, and expert in Possum skin cloaks, we had over 60 staff, students, and their friends and family join us over the three days to cut, sew, burn, and paint the School of Education Cloak. Over the three day journey, we were able to share many yarns, stories, jokes, and reflections, and were able to come to know ourselves and how we can all better engage with Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples and knowledges. Not to mention the new sewing skills that many gained along the way.”

People from across the Brunswick campus community, from VE to Higher Ed to library and property services, all contributed to completing the cloak. A large part of the workshop was held outdoors in Waa Weelum under the gum trees, with crows singing in the background. Important to note: the key role the BBQ played in providing power for the burning instrument to create the patterns on the cloth!


Green Impact

Wednesday 30 October 

At the Green Impact Awards Ceremony hosted by the RMIT Sustainability on 30th October, “The Composters”- made up of members of the Garden Committee at the Brunswick campus – were awarded a BRONZE medal! What’s more, they were also presented a Special Award for their extensive work in the Garden Studio. The morning tea event was a great opportunity to celebrate the initiatives of the many Green Impact teams from across the University.

Congratulations to the Melbourne winners “Team Awesome” and Overall Winners “Hanoi Big Team” and thanks to the RMIT Sustainability team, especially Hayley Cordes and Linda Stevenson for supporting this program.


‘Garden Studio’ Growings

It’s Buath gurru (Tussock Grass) Season. It’s warm. The Tussock Grass, Black Wattle and Coranderrk is in flower and there is fruit on the Kangaroo Apple. Bats catch insects and lizards and snakes are becoming active. The rains continue intermittently. 

In the Brunswick Garden Studio, the blueberry canes are flowering and the lavender and foxgloves continue to bloom, attracting the bees. In exciting news, the seeds on the Swiss Chard and Angelica are drying, almost ready for harvest, and the sprinklers have been turned back on, ready to water the beds over the summer break.

Garden Committee meeting… in the garden!

We look forward to recapping the end of year events and celebrations in the first issue next year, so until then, have a safe and restful end to the year!

– Compiled by Dr Harriette Richards, Angela Armstrong, Zara Piles and Julie Macindoe

Spring, Wrap and Grow!

Welcome to the new Houndstooth Wrap – Houndstooth 2.0. We have migrated to RMIT WordPress hosting but you can still access all of our archival editions through the link in the Houndstooth Wrap Archives Post.

Spring time – Poorneet, Tadpole Season – in Melbourne is always a time of variety. We have hot days, with warm winds blowing in from the northern plains and cool days with night rain keeping our gardens hydrated.

In this month’s Houndstooth we meet TJ Cowlishaw, who visited the Brunswick campus from Perth to give us an inspiring presentation about her First Nations Fashion Label AARLI; learn about new collaboration between RMIT School of Fashion and Textiles and the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology (BIFT); hear from Daphne Mohajer va Pesaran, Lecturer in the Advanced Fashion Studios, who recently visited London as part of her British Museum Research Grant; see Elle Quebec that PhD candidate Rachel Lemarche-Beauchesne was featured in; and check in on our ladybirds, who were released into the Garden Studio last month and have happily made themselves at home.


AARLI

Friday 20 September

A very special event was held at the Brunswick campus on the 20th September. Teagan (TJ) Cowlishaw, Founder and Designer of First Nations Label AARLI and member of RMIT’s Ngamai Entrepreneurs Meet-Up Group, gave a presentation about her work in the Australian fashion industry. Teagan shared her journey, telling us about how she has built her brand with a conscience, focusing on ethical and sustainable practices, as well as her experiences as an indigenous entrepreneur.

AARLI is Australian sustainable and ethical street wear brand that specialises in custom streetwear, eco couture gowns and unisex and youth deadstock apparel. Since establishment in 2013, AARLI has endeavoured to build its own unique aesthetic through the use of next generation storytelling prints, sustainable fabrics and deadstock apparel partnerships.

TJ Cowlishaw’s kinship lies with the Bardi people (grandmother’s ancestry), Ardaloon of the Kimberleys, Western Australia (Family name: Hunter). She is a descendent of the Chinese Pirates of Shanghai (grandfather’s ancestry) (Family name: Jan), and was born and raised in Darwin, NT as well as growing up between Perth, Broome and Darwin. Her Indigenous heritage has led to the name of her label, AARLI, which means ‘the fish’ in Bardi language (from the Broome area in Western Australia).

TJ is Founder + Creative Director of AARLI as well as Assistant Producer working alongside Grace Lillian Lee on 2019’s ‘From Country to Couture’ event as part of the movement – ‘First Nations Fashion + Design’. She aims to empower an emerging generation of ‘Urban Warriors’, influence society’s perceptions of First Nations people, and provide developmental opportunities to continue storylines through platforms and programs which connect next generation creatives, designers and develops First Nations fashion designers and brands.

Teagan (TJ) Colishaw, Founder and Creative Director of First Nations fashion label, AARLI.

BIFT Visit

The School of Fashion and Textiles along with RMIT Global Development, recently hosted a delegation from Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology (BIFT). The Houndstooth Wrap got in touch with Deb Ives and Mick Peel to find out more about the visit.

“The delegation visit at the end of September followed some months of informal meetings with BIFT academics, at both the Brunswick and City campuses. The purpose of the visit was to work collaboratively in developing a joint award between the two institutions for an off-shore Bachelor of Fashion (Design) delivered in China. Dr. Denise Sprynskyj, along with Sang Thai, Kate Sala and Nyssa Marrow participated in presenting a snapshot of some of the new Bachelor of Fashion (Design) courses to the delegation. This is the beginning of what we hope to be an exciting and productive relationship between the staff at BIFT and our on-shore program, with opportunity for further future collaborations.  

Prior to the formal meetings in September the School of F&T had welcomed BIFT academics Xiaotang (lecturer) and Associate Professor Liang Yan to Melbourne for a period of several months. During this time, they worked together with RMIT Fashion Design program staff to develop potential program structures and gain a deeper understanding of the fashion design discipline at RMIT. They expressed their appreciation for the warmth extended from the many staff they met and were a little sad to be leaving.”

We look forward to seeing this collaboration flourish!

L-R: Kiri Delly, Dr. Ricarda Bigolin, Professor Robyn Healy, Dr. Zhong Congsheng (Vice President Bejing Fashion Institute of Technology, BIFT), Ms. Zhang Wei (Director of International Office BIFT), Ms. Xie Ping (Executive Dean, School of Fashion Communication BIFT), and Dr.Yi Weijing (Deputy Dean, School of Fashion Art and Engineering).

British Museum Research Training

Lecturer in Fashion Design in the RMIT Advanced Fashion Studios, Daphne Mohajer va Pesaran, was recently awarded a grant from The British Museum through the Endangered Material Knowledge Programme (EMPKP). In September, she travelled to London to undertake a week of research training at The British Museum to prepare her for the research. The Houndstooth got in touch to hear more about the research training and the research Daphne will be conducting in 2020. 

A monks robe made of Japanese paper (washi)

“This grant will enable me to travel back to Japan to document knowledge related to paper clothing (called Kamiko). Essentially, I will be gathering data (including drawings, photographs, audio, writing, video, maps – anything!) which documents knowledge (technical, legendary, historical, dreams, material/immaterial – anything!) related to Kamiko, especially that which is connected to Shiroishi, a small town in Japan’s northern mountains (宮城県白石市). This data will then be uploaded under a Creative Commons license into an open access archive to preserve it in the British Museum. 

EMKP grant recipients 2019

As part of the grant, I undertook a week-long research training program at the British Museum with other grant recipients. My cohort was a group of people from all over the world — Africa, South America, Oceania, Asia, Europe — and their projects were as diverse as their languages. Broom-making in Nigeria, honeybees in Kenya, pottery in the Amazon, wild silk harvesting in Benin. Here we were able to share our collective (or nonexistent) knowledge of data gathering equipment, as well as our reflections on how knowledge can (and should) be documented.

My strategy is to expand the scope of the research in terms of expressions of knowledge, modes of documentation, and research subjects, and then curate this data to a smaller selection to give to the British Museum. Rural paper-makers, monks, and locals are on board already, while my fingers are firmly crossed to get into the Issey Miyake archive to see his 1984 Kamiko pieces!

I am honoured to be a part of this programme, and will be doing the fieldwork aspect of the research project throughout 2020 with a rough aim to have the data made public in mid-2021 (seems so far away!).

Congratulations Daphne! We are so looking forward to hearing more about this very exciting project.


RMIT PhD Researcher in Elle Quebec

RMIT Fashion and Textiles PhD candidate Rachel Lemarche-Beauchesne was recently interviewed by Elle Quebec when she was in her native Canada. The feature was published in the November 2019 issue, which is also online here. Given that the article is in French, Rachel gave us her translation here:

Rachel Lamarche is a PhD student at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology, in Australia. This Quebecer, who briefly worked for Stella McCartney, is researching fashion and its relationship to veganism and animal rights. She thinks that “fake fur is much more than a passing trend: it is the result of an increased awareness from the general public which is extremely positive.” What about leather? Isn’t it hypocritical for most of these brands to reject fur while creating leather goods? “I see it as a work-in-progress. Businesses follow the pace of consumers, and rejecting fur is the first phase of a reflexion around ethical fashion, she states. When innovative plant-based leather replacements become more accessible and allow for the creation of high quality products, brands will get on board.”


‘Garden Studio’ Growings and Ladybird Check-in

September to October is Poorneet, Tadpole Season. It’s true spring. Temperatures are rising. Migrating birds like the sacred king-fisher are returning south. Yams and water plants are ready for eating. 

The Garden Studio in full spring bloom!

In the Brunswick Garden Studio, spring has sprung. Here are some Garden Diary notes from dye garden extraordinaire Dani Andree:

“Hey I noticed some pollen on the seed stalks of one of our swiss chard plants…pretty cool!
The bees are always having a party on the Lavender so planting them in the garden was definitely a good move.
The ladybirds seem really happy and settled in the Blood Sorrel pod – actually one of the plants has started sending up seed stalks!
Also, the Angelica looks like it’s seeding or going to flower – not sure which, but it is really very beautiful. The French Sorrel is also doing something, there are little tiny capsule type formations appearing.
I’ve noticed Woad and Weld sprouts coming through, the Red Clover is looking very vigorous, and the very first tiny Japanese Red Shiso sprout has appeared. The African Marigolds are blooming and the petals are quite wonderful and frilly.
The first Blueberries have appeared and there’s lots of new growth!
The Raspberries have some new growth,
The Foxglove is blooming…..wow! Check it out :)”

Our ladybirds have settled in and made themselves at home. Do pay them a visit if you’re on campus and fancy saying hi!

Remember to follow us on Facebook or Instagram for up to the minute Garden Studio updates. 

As the weather is warming up we are putting out a request… for HATS!

Editor’s note: This is the last issue of Houndstooth compiled and edited by Harriette, who has been keeping the issues flowing since August 2018. Harriette will be handing over the Houndstooth baton to the very capable hands of Julie Macindoe, who starts in December. Do get in touch with Julie if you have exciting events you think the Houndstooth would be interested in profiling. 

 – Compiled by Dr Harriette Richards, Research Assistant for the School of Fashion and Textiles